THE NOMAD HOUSE - A month in Buenos Aires
Have you noticed that Casa Rosada is not a symmetrical construction? And that the Obelisk on Avenida 9 de Julio indicates two different dates for the founding of Buenos Aires? Or that in its main statue, former president Nestor Kirchner is represented with a bandage on his forehead? Can you believe that the great name of tango Carlos Gardel is not Argentine or that San Martin, the national liberator, is buried on his side because the tomb built in carrack marble is too small to accommodate the coffin?
So many questions and curiosities in this text have a single objective: to show that the most basic tourist itinerary of Buenos Aires is already incredible and with a rich history! So imagine what there are finds and discoveries to be made in the capital of Argentina… We parked A Casa Nômade here for just over a month, put on our most comfortable boots and walked around the city a lot. We got lost in historic streets, tasted typical foods, studied four whole weeks of Spanish, attended tango shows and classical music concerts in squares and also in the most renowned spaces, visited museums, churches and parks of the most different styles, we made good friends , we lived charming cold and windy days and, above all, we fell in love with Buenos Aires.
So much passion that it is even difficult to put together a script with the main attractions. But come on, start at the beginning: the unmissable within the most touristy possible. The best welcome in Buenos Aires is certainly in Plaza de Mayo, the heart of the city, surrounded by the Casa Rosada, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Cabildo, the Bicentennial Museum and owner of a center always bustling with political demonstrations, union protests, civic parades and acts that rescue sad chapters in Argentine history.
Every Thursday, for example, the atrocities of the military dictatorship of the 1970s are remembered there by the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo, women with white headscarves (the pañuelos) and who still mourn the disappearance of thousands of children in their hands. of iron from the generals. And the saddest thing is that they don't just regret the past. In the middle of 2017, the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo, accompanied by more than 300,000 people, crowded the place last September 1st to ask 'Dónde está Santiago?', the artisan who disappeared in August in southern Argentina after being detained by the police in a confrontation between Mapuche Indians and the military.
Still in the Center, it is a must to watch the sunset in front of the Obelisk on Avenida 9 de Julho, walk along Avenida de Mayo until reaching the Congress and have a snack in one of the remarkable cafes. Café Tortoni is the oldest and most traditional, but not necessarily the best. There, the service is bad and the queues are discouraging. An alternative is Café 36 Billares, founded in 1894, with a very interesting proposal to bring together criollo empanadas and typical pies in an elegant environment and hotly contested pool tournaments.
On the way between Casa Rosada and Puerto Madero, a huge building will catch your eye. Please don't despise her! It is the former post office building, where today the Kirchner Cultural Center (CCK) works, with an incredible free program of concerts, shows, exhibitions, tango classes and other cultural activities. We were lucky enough to attend a fado show by the Portuguese singer Mísia and a breathtaking concert by the Orquestra Nacional de Música Argentina with musician Leo Maslíah.
Puerto Madero is the perfect place to spend a late afternoon and, after taking dozens of photos of the Puente de La Mujer and the frigates parked there, look for a restaurant to eat the best bife de chorizo of your life. We recommend two: CabañaLasLilas, the most expensive and sophisticated steakhouse in Buenos Aires, and Villegas, elegant and with a wine cellar to boot.
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